Cambodia – What was it like in 1997 when I first visited?

Cambodia captivated me from the start—its heartbreaking poverty, resilient people, and stunning temples like Angkor Wat. From chaotic bus rides to makeshift ferries, every moment was an adventure. This is the story of how Cambodia changed me forever.
Cambodia - What was it like in 1997 when I first visited?

My First Trip to Cambodia

A Heartbreaking Yet Eye-Opening Experience

My First Trip to Cambodia

Cambodia was a place I had always wanted to visit, especially because of its terrible history. So, in 1997, I decided to go, and boy, was it a shock. From the moment I arrived, I felt heartbroken. The contrast between Cambodia and its neighbouring countries like Thailand and Vietnam was stark. While Thailand and Vietnam seemed more developed, Cambodia felt like a different world altogether—a third world that was hard to comprehend.

The Shocking Reality of Cambodia in 1997

Cambodia

The roads were full of potholes, piles of plastic bags, and dirt everywhere. It was chaotic and overwhelming. But what really broke my heart were the animals. Chickens with hardly any feathers, dogs missing half their fur, and cows so skinny I was surprised they could even walk. It was a sight I’ll never forget.

The poverty was overwhelming. People were living in tin houses, and children wandered around barefoot, wearing dirty, tattered clothes—if they were wearing any at all. The clothes they did have looked like they’d been stitched together by someone with no sewing skills (and I’m terrible at sewing, so that’s saying something). Sick animals were everywhere, and it was heartbreaking to see.

The Kingdom of Wonder

Falling in Love with Cambodia

Falling in Love with Cambodia

Despite the challenges, Cambodia’s beauty shone through. On that first trip, I visited Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Just outside Siem Reap lies the breathtaking Angkor Wat, a temple complex that’s nothing short of awe-inspiring. Built in the 12th century by King Suryavarman II Angkor Wat is part of a vast religious complex with over a thousand buildings. It’s one of the world’s great cultural wonders, and it’s easy to see why.

I fell in love with Cambodia during that first visit, and it wasn’t long before I returned. My second trip, in 2001, took me from Bangkok to Sihanoukville—a journey that was as chaotic as it was memorable.

 The Epic Bus Ride from Bangkok to Sihanoukville

The bus ride from Bangkok to Sihanoukville was an adventure in itself. The moment we crossed into Cambodia, the roads turned into a sea of red dirt and potholes. The bus, one of the oldest I’ve ever seen, had windows that didn’t close, so red dust poured in for the entire 11-hour journey. What should have been a 6-hour trip turned into a marathon of bumps, jolts, and laughter.

Trying to read a book was impossible, and taking photos was more entertaining than productive. Sleep? Forget about it. The bus threw us from side to side, and the heat was unbearable—especially since the air conditioning didn’t work. But despite the discomfort, there was something oddly charming about the experience.

The Makeshift Ferry

A Lesson in Ingenuity

The ferry

One of the most memorable parts of the journey was the ferry crossing. When the bus stopped at the river, we were told to “wait” and then “get off.” We were herded onto a makeshift ferry—two boats tied together with string and barrels underneath to keep them afloat. Planks of wood served as a platform, and somehow, the bus managed to drive onto it as well.

It was a testament to the resourcefulness of the Cambodian people. There was no health and safety in sight, but everything worked—at least for a while. The ferry ride was both nerve-wracking and hilarious, and it perfectly encapsulated the spirit of Cambodia: making the best of what you have.

Arriving in Sihanoukville

Red Dust and Street Dogs

The once very Cambodian town of Sihanoukville 1

By the time we arrived in Sihanoukville, we looked like we’d just come from Mars. Covered in red dust and exhausted from the journey, we stumbled off the bus and found a hotel for $4 a night. A quick shower and we were out like a light, asleep within minutes.

The sight of the street dogs and cats stayed with me, though. They were clearly in need of help, and I knew I had to do something. That trip planted the seed for one of my dreams. This one was helping the animals of Cambodia.

Cambodia’s Beauty and Resilience

Takeaway

Cambodia is a country of contrasts. It’s a place where poverty and beauty coexist, where history is both tragic and inspiring. While Sihanoukville has changed a lot since my first visit—and not always for the better—Cambodia still has so much to offer.

If you’re thinking of visiting, I encourage you to research the country’s history before you go. Understanding the impact of the Khmer Rouge and Cambodia’s long road to recovery will give you a deeper appreciation for its people and culture. And don’t forget to explore the beautiful islands and temples—they are truly unforgettable.

My Dream, well there are a few

Helping the Animals of Cambodia

Helping animals 1

One of my biggest dreams is to help the animals of Cambodia. The street dogs and cats I saw on my trips left a lasting impression on me, and I’m determined to make a difference. Through my website, I hope to raise awareness and support for this cause.

Paying it forward is wonderfully simple, all it requires is a kind gesture towards someone else.

If my journey and efforts resonate with you, please consider supporting my mission. Every donation helps make a difference. To do this please reach out to me via email.

Final Thoughts

Final Thoughts

Cambodia is a country that stays with you long after you leave. Its history, its people, and its beauty make it a place like no other. Whether you’re exploring the temples of Angkor Wat, relaxing on the islands, or simply taking in the everyday life of its cities, Cambodia has a way of touching your heart.

So, if you’re considering a trip to Cambodia, don’t hesitate. Come with an open mind, a sense of adventure, and a willingness to learn. You’ll leave with memories that will last a lifetime—and maybe, like me, a dream to make a difference.

Recommended Reading

Understanding Cambodia’s History

If you’d like to learn more about Cambodia, here are some great books to start with:

  • Human Trafficking in Cambodia by Chenda Keo
  • Culture Smart!: The Essential Guide to Customs & Culture
  • A History of Cambodia by David Chandler
  • Cambodia’s Curse: The Modern History of a Troubled Land by Joel Brinkley
  • First They Killed My Father by Loung Ung
  • A Cambodian Prison Portrait by Vann Nath
  • Pol Pot: Anatomy of a Nightmare by Philip Short
  • Survival in the Killing Fields by Haing Ngor
  • Lucky Child by Loung Ung
  • When Broken Glass Floats by Chanrithy Him

These books offer a deeper understanding of Cambodia’s history, culture, and the resilience of its people. They’re a must-read for anyone planning to visit or simply wanting to learn more about this incredible country.

2 responses

  1. Great story! I visited Cambodia in 1999 and your description of travelling is spot on! I especially remember the red dust everywhere and did a few trips in the back of a pick up with loads of local people, chickens and other random things! I will never forget this amazing country!

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